Amy's Newborn Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

My friend Amy needed a newborns cardigan pattern and I had just finished one and told her I'd post the pattern. It started out as the sweater in my Newborn Sweater Set then I added a button band, sleeves and a collar.

I used an H hook and sport weight yarn and get 4 dc = 1 inch.

This sweater is newborn size.

V stitch: dc, ch1, dc in same stitch

Ch 52, you are starting from the neckline

Row 1: dc in forth chain from hook,(Ch 3 counts as 1st stitch here and in every row), dc in next 5 chains, V st in next ch, 9 dc, V st, 14 dc, V st, 9 dc, V st, 7 dc
Row 2-6: ch 3, dc in each dc and V stitch in each V stitch.
Row 7:(forms the armholes) ch 3 and turn, dc to first V stitch, folding so 1st and 2nd V stitches are together dc in both to join them, dc to next V stitch and join 3rd and 4th V stitch in same manner, dc to end
Rows 8-16: ch 3 and turn, dc in each dc

Button Band:
Row 1: without breaking yarn, ch 1, *going up the front of the sweater, 2 sc into the side of each dc and ch 3. [Do not just go around the dc or ch 3, but put the hook into the stitch]
Turn the work and sc back down the front or if this is the side you want the button holes, sc, sk 1 st and ch 1, 4 sc down front for 3 or 4 button holes and then sc the rest.*
3sc in corner at bottom, sc in each dc across bottom 3sc in corner and repeat from * to *

Sleeves:
Going through both V stitches where the sleeves were joined in the underarm, join yarn, if you don't do this there will be a hole in the underarm
Rd 1: ch 3, dc in each stitch, Check to make sure you have 22 stitches and join
Rd 2-10: ch 3, dc in each dc and join
Rd 11: sc around and end

Collar:
Row 1: At the neckline, join in side of single crochet for button band and ch 3, dc in side of second sc of button band, dc in each stitch of the starting chain across ending with a dc in each sc of button band.
Row 2-3: dc in each dc

Sew on buttons to correspond to the button holes

Hilary's Girly Girl Hat Free Crochet Pattern

OK, that's not Hilary, that's me, Hilary is much younger and prettier. I also did not make this hat for Hilary, it will be going to some as yet undetermined charity. What I did make for Hilary's mother is this pattern so she could make Hilary this hat. Hilary's mother (aka my cousin Marie) showed me a pattern for a baby hat and wanted to know how to re-size it for an adult. I told her I could do even better, I'd do the whole pattern. She also mentioned that Hilary was a girly girl, hence the name of the hat. So now I'll share the pattern with everyone for free:

You will need 4 ounces of worsted weight yarn and an I hook. If I seem to be using an I hook all the time it's because it's one of the few I can find. Someone told me to blame my cats and they're probably right.

Rd 1: Ch 4 and join, ch 3(counts as first dc here and throughout) 14 dc into loop and join, 15dc made
Rd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each stitch and join 30 dc made
Rd 3: Ch 3, *2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, repeat from* around and join 45 dc made
Rd 4: Ch 3, dc in next dc, * 2dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, repeat from * around and join 60 dc made
Rd 5 thru 15: ch 3, dc in each dc and join
Rd 16: 4ch (counts as dc and ch 1here and in next row), in same stitch dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, *in next stitch dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc, ch 1, repeat from * around and join
Rd 17: sl st to first ch 1 space and ch 4, ch 1, *dc in next ch 1 space and ch 1 around and join.

Easy, huh??, Hope Hilary likes her hat!!

George the Hairy Monster Finger Puppet

Isn't he a cutie?? You all should know by now that I have a thing for finger puppets. I was experimenting with different yarns and came up with this little monster. The first way I tried it ended up being turned into a kitty toy. Smokey and Sami were happy about that but it just wasn't what I was trying for. So I kept trying. I've named this guy George just because I thought it looked like a George I used to know. He's really easy to make so even the beginner crocheter can do it.

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You need:

Small amount Sport weight yarn

Small amount fun fur (or eyelash) yarn

J Hook

2 googly eyes

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Holding both yarns together

Ch 4 and join to form loop

Row 1; 8 sc into loop, sl st to first sc

Row 2; ch 1, sc in each sc and join

Repeat row two until you have 10-12 rows or until George is as big as you want

After you finish the last round ch about 7 to form tail

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Glue googly eyes on and George is finished!

Now if you have some pink fun fur you can make Georgette

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Of course if you want you can stuff it and sew it closed and make a kitty toy. Just don't put the goggly eyes on it.

Homespun Scarf Free Crochet Pattern

I spent awhile today making my grandson a cape so he could go to school as the character from one of his favorite books. Not having any idea who "The Ranger's Apprentice" was so I kind of had to wing it. He had to go home before I got a picture of it. That of course has nothing to do with the scarf pictured above so I guess I'd better give you the pattern.

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A lot of people don't like working with Lion Brand Homespun and I understand that. I'm making these scarves for a group called The Woven Lotus who distributes them to victims of sexual abuse and assault. They have to be soft and Homespun certainly fits the bill. I wanted to find a pattern that minimized the hassles of using Homespun and came up with this. Most of the stitches go into spaces and makes it a lot easier to work with. One six ounce skein will make two six foot (including the fringe) scarves.

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Homespun Scarf

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Lion Brand Homespun or similar yarn

Size N crochet hook

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Chain 16

Row 1: Double crochet in 6th ch from hook,* ch1 skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, repeat from * ending with a dc

Row 2: Ch 3 and turn, dc in first sp, *ch 1, dc in next space, repeat from * across, dc in 4th chain of starting turning chain.

Row 3: Ch 4 and turn, double crochet first space,* ch1, dc in next space repeat from * across, dc in last dc
Row 4: Ch 3 and turn, dc in first sp, *ch 1, dc in next space, repeat from * across, dc in 3rd chain of turning chain

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until scarf is about four and a half feet long, ending with a row 3.

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You can make it longer if you wish but you might not get 2 scarves out of one skein.

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Cut yarn into 16 inch lengths to make fringe.

Deb's V-Stitch Granny (Dishcloth) Free Crochet Pattern

We have a challenge going in my Yahoo group CraftingForACause to make dishcloths for a women's shelter. After making a few from patterns, of course I had to try one of my own. The reason I put the dishcloth in parenthesis is because that's what I made with the pattern but it could be used for any project using squares. It's a repeating pattern and I'm going to write it in a way that you can make it any number of rows.

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For the dishcloth I used 3 oz. Sugar & Cream variegated worsted weight cotton and 1 oz solid. I used a J hook and finished size is about 12" square.

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Starting V-stitch: Ch 4, dc in same stitch

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V-stitch: dc,ch1,dc in same stitch

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Corner: in corner space 2dc, ch2, 2dc

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Start Dishcloth

Ch 4 and join.

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Rd 1: ch3 (counts as dc) 2 dc, *ch 2, 3 dc* 3 times ch 2 and join

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Rd 2: ch 3, dc in each dc work corner into each ch 2 space and join

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Rd 3: Make sure you are in the center dc of the side make a starting V-stitch, sk next dc, 2dc, work corner, 2 dc, skip next st, V-stitch, sk st, 2 dc, work corner, continue around join to 3rd chain of first V- stitch and sl st into V-stitch

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Rd 4: Starting V-stitch, skip next st, dc in next 4 dc, work corner, dc in next 4 dc, V-stitch, work all the way around in this pattern, join in same manner as above, sl st into V-stitch

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Rd 5: Starting V-stitch*sk next st, dc, sk next st, V-stitch, sk next st, dc in next 2 stitches, work corner, dc in next 2 st, sk st, V-Stitch, sk st, dc, sk, st, V- stitch around and join

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Rd 6: Starting V-stitch, dc in every dc V-stitch in every V stitch and work corners around

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Rd 7: Starting V-stitch, *dc in every dc, V-stitch in every V-stitch to the last V- stitch of that side, sk1 of the side, dc in next st, sk 1, V-stitch, dc in next 2, corner, dc in next two stitches, sk 1, V-stitch, sk, continue around from * Join

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Repeat rds 6 and 7 and end

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Solid Border (optional)

Rd 10: Join solid color to any corner, ch3, 4 dc in corner, dc in every dc and in ch 1 space of V- stitches to corner, 5 dc in corner and continue around

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For another dishcloth try Deb's Flower Dishcloth

Stripey Worm Finger Puppets Free Crochet Pattern

These guys are so easy to make I can hardly call it a pattern. This is such a great way to use up all those really small balls of yarn. Even the smallest pieces can be used to embroider the facial features or make the topknot. A lot of charities that deal with children take small gifts like these for the kids so make a bunch and donate them.

Stripey Worms

These are made with worsted weight yarn and a G hook. If you are making more than one stripe with the same yarn do not cut yarn after each round but carry it inside the worm and pick it up again at the next color change. This decreases the amount of ends you need to work in. When to change color is up to you, but if you like the hat look of the middle two change color after third row.

Pattern

Ch 4 and join

Rd 1: 6 sc in loop and join

Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc and join

Rd 3 - 10 or up to 15: sc in each sc changing colors as the mood strikes you, make as many rounds as you would like, you can make short or long worms like I did above

Last Rd: sc, sc DEC in next two st, 2 sc, sc DEC in next two st, 2sc, sc DEC in next two st, sc and join

Embroider facial features

Topknot: (optional) Use 2 - 4 strands of yarn and attach to top of head as if you were making fringe, trim to the length you would like it and separate strands to fluff them up.

I also have pattern for:

Boy and Girl Finger Puppets

Little Bug Finger Puppets

Boy and Girl Finger Puppets

OK, so I've gotten a little obsessed with the finger puppets. And of course once I start trying a few patterns for something I have to create my own. So I made this little girl in her bonnet and ruffled dress and little boy in his ballcap. The directions are below:

I used a G hook and scraps of yarn, I used a fuzzy baby yarn for the blond hair and mohair-look yarn for the brown.

Basic Body

With skin color yarn :

Ch 4 and join

Rd 1: 6 sc in loop

Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc

Rds 3 - 5: sc in each sc

Rd 6: sc DEC in next 2 sc around and end color

Changing to main clothing color

Rd 7: sc in each sc

Rd 8: 2 sc in each sc

Rd 9: sc in next 3 st. , (ch 4 sc in second ch from hook and next 2 ch). sc in next five stitches and repeat ( ) , sc in next 4 st.

Rd 10: sc in 3 st, [3sc in foundation ch of arm, 3 sc in the 3 sc of arm], 5 sc, repeat [ ] for other arm

Rd 11: sc in the 12 sc of body moving arms out of the way

Rds 12-17: sc in each sc

Rd 18: sc, sc DEC in next two sc, 2 sc, sc DEC, 2 sc, sc DEC, sc and end

Hats:

In yarn to match clothing color Ch4 and join

Rd 1: 6 sc in loop

Rd 2: 2 sc in each sc

Rd 3: sc in each sc

For girls hat

Rd 4: 2 dc in each sc and end

For boys baseball cap

Rd 4: 2 sc, 2hdc, 2 dc, 2hdc, 2sc, join and end

Sew hats to top of head

Hair

Join hair color yarn to one side of forehead right under brim of hat ch 4 and join in next stitch until forehead is covered for bangs, you can end here for boy, for girl ch 10 and join until you reach the other side of the bangs again.

Girls ruffly skirt,

Using dress color join yarn to post of any stitch three or four rows from bottom. Do 3 dc in the post of each stitch all the way around.

Embroider facial features

I also have patterns for:

Stripey Worm Finger Puppets

Little Bug Finger Puppet

Sunflower Lap-Ghan Free Crochet Pattern

This is a product of serendipity. I bought the wrong yarn!! I was buying it for a sweater pattern but bought worsted weight instead of sport yarn. Not exactly having unlimited funds I had to come up with some way to use it. So my kids sunflower sweater became a lap-ghan and I love how it came out.

Finished size 30 X 42

Gauge: I used a J hook and the squares came out to 6 1/2"

Materials:

about 12 oz royal blue

about 6-8 oz sunflower yellow

about 3-4 oz green

small amount of brown

These are approx. since some of it was partial skeins

Make 24 squares

Rnd 1: With brown, Ch 4 and join, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc) 15 dc and join to top of ch 3, 16 dc

Rnd 2: With yellow, Join to any dc ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1) *dc, ch 1 in each dc around, 16 ch1 spaces

Rnd 3: With green, Join in any space, ch 3, in same space 2 dc, ch2, 3 dc, ch1, *sk next ch 1 sp, 3dc in next sp ch1, sk next st, 3dc, ch2, 3 dc, ch1 repeat from * twice, sk space, 3 dc ch 1 and join.

Rnd 4: With blue, Join in any corner, ch 3, 2dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1,( 3 dc, ch 1 in each side space), 3dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch1 (corner made) continue around and join, sl st to corner

Rnd 5: ch 3, 2dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1,( 3 dc, ch 1 in each side space), 3dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch1 (corner made) continue around and join

Join: in 4 rows of six, you can join in any manner that you like but I usually do it by holding right sides together and sc in back loops of stitches

Border:

V stitch: dc, ch 1, dc

Rnd 1: With blue, join with sl st in any corner ch3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3dc, ch1, 3dc ch 1 in every space along side, in corner space 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1 (corner made) continue around in this manner

Rnd 2: With yellow, join in any corner, ch 4, (dc, ch1) 3 times, * in center stitch of next 3dc group V stitch, ch1 to next corner. In corner, V stitch, ch 1, V stitch, ch1 continue around in this manner join to 3rd ch of beginning ch 4.

Rnd 3: With blue, Join to any corner, ch 3, dc, ch2, 2 dc, ch1, in each V stitch along side 3 dc, ch1 to corner, in corner 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc continue around in this manner.

Open-Heeled Preemie Booties Free Crochet Pattern

OPEN-HEELED PREEMIE BOOTIES

Many NICU's prefer open heeled booties for the preemies because they are easier to put on tiny feet. This is a smaller version of the newborn booties I posted the pattern for here.

Preemie booties are usually 1 1/2 to 3" long. I used a size E hook and baby sport yarn for these and mine came out to 2", you can change the size by changing the hook and/or yarn for different size preemies.

Ch 3 at beginning of each rd counts as 1 dc

Ch 4 and sl st to form loop.

Rd 1; ch 3 and 9 dc in loop. (10 sts)

Rd 2; ch 3 *2 dc in next stitch dc in next repeat from * (15 sts)

Rd 3; dc in each dc

Heel

Row 1 ch 3, dc in all but 1 dc, do not join

Row 2-3 Ch 3 and turn, dc in each dc

Cuff

Row 1 ch3, working on side of dc in heel, 6 dc evenly spaced down side, dc in the dc left open, 6 dc evenly spaced on other side

Row 2 ch 3 and turn, dc in each dc

Row 3 ch1, sc in same sp as ch1, *sk 1 dc shell (sc, 2dc in same stitch) in next dc, repeat from * around, sk dc, sc

For ties either ch 70 for tie or you can use ribbon. Tie should be threaded so that it ties in the back.

The Never Ending Blanket Square Free Crochet Pattern

This is the standard Granny square I usually work with when making my blankets. This particular square is one made for a never-ending-blanket. I like it because it's "mindless", I can do it with my eyes closed. I know that for sure because I've tried it. It's also versatile, you can make each blanket unique by changing the colors, where the color changes are and size of the square. I've made blankets with 144 small squares and I've made them with one really big square. Several people have asked for the pattern and I've referred them to a similar pattern that I've seen on the web. But it is similar not the same so I thought I would finally post my pattern here. This square is suitable for projects asking for squares with a minimum of "holes" or "no lacy patterns" and makes a very warm blanket. I need to name it, hmmm, maybe the Never-Ending-Blanket square??

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Never-Ending-Blanket square

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chain 4 and join to form loop

Rd 1 chain 3 (counts as first dc) 2 dc, ch 2, * 3 dc, ch 2* 3 times join to first ch 3

Rd 2 chain 3 (counts as first dc) *dc in each dc (3 st total), in ch 2 sp for corner, 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc* 3 times

Rd 3 and all other rounds start with 3 ch counting as first dc, dc in each dc and 2 dc 2 ch 2 dc in each corner

To change color simply end first color at end of round, join the new color anywhere ( I like to do it in a different spot than where I ended to make working in te ends less noticable) following pattern.

For pictures of blankets I've made with this pattern

Never-Ending-Blanket

Double Strand Lapghan

Project Linus Blankets

Baby Clouds Blankets (read down in post for the 'not quite a pattern' pattern)

Manly Man Slippers Free Crochet Pattern

In my effort to use up all that brown yarn I decided to try to make some really warm slippers for the elders at Pine Ridge. This pattern uses three strands of worsted weight yarn and is very thick and warm. The pairs I made fit my volunteer model easily and he wears a size ten. I have a similar pattern for women here.

You will need:
N Hook
3 skeins worsted weight yarn in different colors I used 2 strand of brown or tan and a verigated strand in mine.

Toe and foot
With all three strands of yarn held together chain 4 and join
Rd 1 Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) 7 dc in ring and join for 8 dc
Rd 2 ch 3, 2 dc in each stitch for 16 dc
Rd 3 ch 3, dc in each stitch
Repeat rd 3 -5 times (you could add or subtract a row here if you need to change the size)
Heel
Rd 1 Ch3, dc in 13 stitches leaving 3 stitches open
Rd 2 Ch 3 and turn, dc in each stitch
Rd 3 repeat rd 2
Turning the slipper inside out use a slip stitch to join the back of the heel. Slip stitch back up to top.
Cuff
Rd 1 Ch 3 work 7 dc evenly along one side, dc in each of 3 stitches left open when making heel, 6 dc evenly spaced along other side and join (18 stitches) (make sure your working on right side, I seem to have the tendancy to start working on the wrong side)
Rd 2 Ch 3 and dc in each stitch
You can repeat rd 2 again for a longer cuff

Double Strand Bobble Slipper Free Crochet Pattern

This is a fairly simple, but warm pattern for slippers. It uses two strands of yarn OR 1 strand of bulky yarn. I used an N hook for this and I hope I've adjusted the pattern this time to take into account the guage I crochet. These should fit an adult foot. They're warm and comfy too, I made myself a pair!

Bobble Slippers

Toe and foot

With both strands of yarn held together or one strand of bulky chain 4 and join

Rd 1 Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc) 15 dc in ring and join for 16 dc

Rd 2 ch 3, dc in each stitch

Repeat row 2 -4 times for small -5 times med and -6 times lg

Heel

Rd 1 Ch3, dc in 12 stitches leaving 3 stitches

Rd 2 Ch 3 and turn, dc in each stitch

Rd 3 repeat rd 2

Turning the slipper inside out use a slip stitch to join the back of the heel. Slip stitch back up to top.

Cuff

Rd 1 Ch 3 work 6 dc evenly along one side, dc in each of 3 stitches left open when making heel, 6 dc evenly spaced along other side and join (16 stitches)

Rd 2 Ch 3 and dc in each stitch

Rd 3 Ch 1 and turn sc in same space as chain 1 *make bobble [ yo hook twice and insert in stitch yo and pull through yo and pull through 2 loops on hook twice (this should leave 2 loops still on hook) yo twice insert hook into same stitch yo and pull through yo pull through 2 loops twice yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook], sc repeat from * around

Rd 4 Ch 3 and turn dc in each stitch

Please let me know if you try this and how it comes out.

The Never Ending Blanket

I call this the never ending blanket because another blanket is started before the last one is finished. I keep several bags of smaller balls of yarn in certain color combos. These may change as I get more of certain colors and less of others. The color combos I usually use are bright colors, pastels, and red, white and blue. I only use worsted weight yarn but even then some are too thick or thin so make sure they're all about the same although some variation can be worked with.

You can use any plain granny square pattern. I use one that doesn't have a lot of holes. I also use a K hook so these squares go fairly quickly. Since I am making them for Project Linus and kids come in all sizes I don't worry too much in the beginning about size and number of squares. I found if I have a lot of smaller balls making more small squares works. On the other hand, if you have larger balls you can make large squares and don't have to make so many.

The pattern for my square can be found here.

I have a few "rules" I follow, but you don't have to

1. Never change colors in the middle of a row. If I don't have enough I unravel and try on a lower row of another square.

2. Never do more than 2 rows with the same color in the same square.

3. Except in the very beginning where sometimes it's unavoidable, once I choose a ball to use , I use it up. In other words it may be big enough to make a row 7 and 8 of one square, 6 and 7 of another then maybe a 2 or 3 and finally to use it up I make one or two row 1's. This is the rule that makes it a never ending blanket, there are always squares started for the next blanket.

4. When first starting your blanket, start with the smallest balls first. This makes it easier to use up all those small balls and work your way up. If you want, save any pieces that are too small to make a first row for fringe.

5. As you get more scraps, small balls etc. add them to the squares you have made, at some point as your working on them, you have to decide how big you are going to make the squares and how many you are going to need.

6. Once you have enough join them together in a pleasing way. I often do all the last rows in the same color. In the picture above, if you can make it out, I did the last rows of all the squares on the bright ones in Red Heart Mexicali variegated. This can pull all those colors together. But again, you don't have to.

7. Do several rows of double or single crochet for the border.

Now that your finished, if you followed the rules, you should have at least a couple squares of the next blanket started. You don't have to do them all at once, or save up a lot of yarn. I usually add scraps as I get them so it can sometimes take a while to complete a blanket but of course I'm working on a lot of other projects so I'll have more scraps!!